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The first question many people ask is, "Can't you just look at it and tell? You know, look at it with your eyes?" It's true, my eyes are certainly the most valuable and sophisticated equipment I own for identifying gems and diamonds.
As technology becomes more sophisticated, more sophisticated equipment is needed to make a positive identification. (Back to being a detective!) As far back as ancient Egypt, there have been imitations made of gems. Glass was used first, and today very high tech labs and chemicals are utilized.
The first thing learned in gem identification classes is not to assume anything based on appearance. Blue topaz and aquamarine, garnet and ruby, tsavorite garnet and emerald are just a few gems that often look just alike.
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Diamond Donna uses
the Gem-e-Square™ Color Communication System |
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A few items of laboratory equipment are always needed. My equipment is purposely the smallest (yet still efficient) available, so that I can easily carry it in a case with me. A big lab is nice, but a portable lab can go many more places!
To accurately determine the value of your jewelry, a positive test must be made as to the metal type and content, and the identity of the gem or gems. Thankfully, in the last 100 years equipment has been developed that let's us determine the scientific properties of an "unknown gem". The way the gem looks under at least 10 power (ten times what the eye can see) magnification is important; as well as the refractive index, a measurement of how fast light travels through a transparent or translucent material. Observing how the gem behaves under daylight, ultraviolet light, and polarized light makes it even easier to be sure what the gem is.
There are tests to separate 10 from 14 Karat gold, white gold from platinum, and fake from the real thing. The amount of metal needed, and how the jewelry was made are important to figure out the cost of replacement. Is it trademarked by a famous designer? It's important in jewelry, not just ladies shoes! The more information you know about the jewelry and where it came from, the less time will be needed on research.
When you're a detective, sometimes even the FBI never has all the equipment needed. However, for the vast majority of jewelry made, I carry the following items. (They still fit easily into a detective's blue roadster.)
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1.3 Megapixel USB Digital Microscope
This 1.3 Megapixel Digital Microscope allows Donna to capture high resolution images up to 200 X (power). It includes software that allows her to view the images on her PC and take snapshots.
Duplex II® Refractometer
from GIA Gem Instruments. This refractometer is designed to "Spot" read cabochons or small facets with diameters less than 1mm. Top of the line desk model with removable eyepiece magnifier that enlarges the scale image.
Illuminator Polariscope®
With this instrument, optic character in doubly refractive gems, pleochroism, and diamond strain can also be detected.
Diffraction Grating Spectroscope (Compact Unit)
This is a compact unit produces clear bright spectra with low intensity light. Lipstick-tube sized spectroscope has fixed focus and slit.
GEM Calcite Dichroscope
Simultaneously view gem's pleochroic colors in sharp contrast. Quickly separates doubly refractive stones like ruby from singly refractive stones like garnets and red spinels.
Chelsea Color Filter
Helps identify certain green, red and blue stones. Detects dyes in certain gems like dyed green and blue chalcedony.
The M24 Professional Electronic Gold Tester from Mizar
The most complete electronic tester for precious metals.
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